Page 31 - Fourways Gardens September 2020

Nature

Black-necked Crane (RS) Golden Langur (DS) Great Hornbill (MA)

slightly dishevelled, with relatively long, (one of the only two Asian representatives Royal euphorbias, a very African scene,
uncombed hair, old-fashioned spectacles of this African bird family), which was before making a surprising discovery
and ragged and worn clothing. He was intent on helping itself to bee grubs in – on a rocky hillside, we saw a pair of
obviously of high intellect, and married the combs. Himalayan Brown Goral (type of goat).
to a financially-independent woman Following the contour, the road took us
who hated travel of every conceivable After passing through forests of flowering through subsistence farms, which were
type (because of motion sickness) and magnolias and colourful rhododendrons mainly terraced lands of rice paddies and
was accordingly more or less confined to on the slopes of the Yongphu La en route, fields ploughed (two oxen and a wooden
the village in Germany where they lived. we eventually reached the settlement plough) for potatoes and beans, largely
They had two grown-up children and he of Trashigang, located at the foot of a on the lower slopes of the valleys. Birding
was retired. Apparently, having secured steep wooded valley, at midday. During stops along the way produced Darjeeling
a doctorate (PhD) in forestry science the afternoon, we indulged in a bit of Woodpecker, Smoky Warbler, White-
after leaving school, he found his way local culture, visiting the very impressive browed Shrike-Babbler, Red-tailed Minla
into commerce, making a small fortune Trashigang Dzong overlooking the and Nepal Fulvetta.
in trading derivatives, before being confluence of the Drangme and Gamri
shut-down by legislation introduced by Chu (rivers). It was constructed over 100 Onwards further west to Yongkhola
the German authorities. Then, aged 55, years ago, and we were given a guided (1 800m), we reached our next campsite
he devoted all his time and a good deal tour of the establishment by Salaam. for two nights. Birds seen during the day
of his resources to birding, producing It was interesting to see how monks as included Golden-throated Barbet, Large
his own bird field guides for every trip young as four years old live their lives of Hawk-Cuckoo, Common Green Magpie,
undertaken. But what was, in my view, dedicated Buddhism every day. Rufescent Prinia, Grey-bellied Tesia, Yellow-
remarkable about him was his diet vented Warbler, Steaked Yuhina and Large
whilst on birding trips, which consisted In the town, we were also treated to a visit Niltava. Rain accompanied by strong winds
exclusively of cheese and chips/crisps (if to a true oriental bazaar market replete right through the night resulted in the

available) for breakfast, and three 750ml with a great variety of grains, garlands of collapse of four of the ve accommodation
bottles of the local beer for both lunch chillies, silk, hand-woven bamboo crafts, tents, most of my companions emerging in
and dinner, supplemented again by hocks of yak meat, fermented cheese the morning wet and cold.
cheese and chips/crisps. He collected the balls and colourful textiles. Nearby,
labels of the beers he drank, pasting them Blue-capped and Blue Rock-thrushes, Continuing on to the fabled Limnethang
into a scrapbook of sorts, had a lovely dry noisy White-crested Laughingthrush, Road, a birding hotspot which can
sense of humour, was very bright and Grey-winged Blackbird and Black- produce some of the most awesome
knowledgeable, surprisingly physically fit throated Parrotbill were spotted, whilst birds on the planet, we encountered even
despite his unusual trip diet, and never in drier scrub, encounters with Rusty- more rain and mist, resulting in very few
suffered any stomach upsets. Totally cheeked Scimitar-Babbler, Striated Prinia, new birds for the day, other than Golden-
contrarian in almost everything he did, he Himalayan Bulbul and Three-banded spectacled Warbler, Collared grosbeak
was a very interesting character! Rosefinch, were made. and Golden-breasted Fulvetta which
braved the weather.
Commencing the 100km journey to Departing from Trashigang, we travelled
Trashigang, we stopped alongside a through Chir Pine forest to our next Having now dealt with almost half of the
cliff-face where Giant Rock Bees had campsite located in broad-leaved forest new bird species (lifers) I was hoping for
constructed massive combs clinging to 20km east of Mongar (largest town of during the trip, this concludes the first
overhanging ledges. These were attended eastern Bhutan). Crossing the Kulong part of my chronicle about my Bhutan
by a single Yellow-rumped Honeyguide, Chu, we passed a hillside studded with adventure.

Fourways Gardens • 29 • September 2020