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asian Wild Buffalo (Ds)

Greater adjutants at local rubbish dump (MA)

afforded further spectacular views of the
rhinos, including several mothers with
calves providing an intimate encounter
with one of the world’s great but
endangered mammals. The rest of the
day was spent birding the central and
western part of the Park with a 2-hour
break for lunch back at the Diphla River
Lodge. 26 new (lifer) bird species, the
highest number for the entire trip, were
asian Elephants (Ds) recorded over this period. The buffet
dinner, comprised largely of various
and obliging agent, Inram Ali, who was to the Maribou of Africa. During the curried dishes around a bamboo fire, was
to be my guide for the entire 25-day final half hour of the trip the scenery good, but it inevitably resulted in upset
trip. I was immediately transferred to my changed to that of less populated stomachs for a few group members.
hotel, the Brahmaputra Ashok, which forested areas. On entering the NP, we
overlooks the mighty river of the same spotted 4 Great One-horned rhinos The next morning, we departed for the
name. A snooze followed by a dinner and an enormous Asian Wild Buffalo. Panbari forest located within the Park
and light refreshment readied me for boundaries for some forest birding.
the meeting that evening with the rest An excellent lunch at the Diphla The trip produced an additional 8 lifers,
of our tour group of 7. Just before the River Lodge, our overnight hotel, was bringing my tally for the kaziranga NP
meeting I was very surprised to find, followed by an afternoon birding/ to 34 lifers, including Red Junglefowl,
at the hotel entrance, an unconscious game viewing jeep ride during which (ancestor of our domesticated ‘chicken’)
yellow Bittern which had flown into a Asian Elephant, Hog and swamp Deer, and Bar-headed Goose, which also
glass window of the hotel, stunning Rhesus Macaque (a primate) and Wild features in the 100 Birds to see Before
itself. Not seriously injured, it quickly Boar were observed. Birding was equally You Die. The latter qualifies for inclusion
recovered and was on its way again. successful with a list in excess of 100 in the book by virtue of its ability to
A good omen for the birding? species adding to a most enjoyable day. migrate 1 600km over the highest part
of the Himalayas, survive 320km per
soon after breakfast the next morning, We rose early (4.00am) the next morning hour wind speeds, fly at an altitude of
we were on our way to the kaziranga NP, for an elephant-back ride primarily to over 10 000m (2/3 less oxygen than
travelling through very populated rural search for the very rare and critically that at sea level), and endure intense
areas in a stifling atmosphere of smoke endangered Bengal Florican (member cold. Needless to say, this bird freak
and dust (no rain for 5 months), the of the 27-species-strong bustard family has evolved with certain physiological
cloudless sky white rather than the usual and featured in the 100 Birds to see features which enable it, using its
blue. Our minibus journey of 5 hours Before You Die book by D Chandler specialised haemoglobin, to extract
was interrupted by only one stop at a and D Couzens). Our group of 7 was from ‘thin air’ more oxygen than any
smouldering rubbish dump where we split into 3 for what turned out to be a other bird species, and sustain vigorous
were delighted to find no less than about most uncomfortable (for the backside) flapping flight which in turn produces
30 Greater Adjutants, an endangered experience. Our one-hour ride was sufficient heat to prevent its feathers
stork species very similar in appearance unsuccessful in flushing a Florican but from becoming encrusted with ice.

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