Page 30 - • waterfall_9_Aug2020_v3.indd

Waterfall Nature

A CULTURAL

AND BIRDING

TRIP TO

BHUTAN

(Part 2)

Having achieved sightings of roughly half Cutia (DS)

of the bird species I sought in Bhutan,

this part of the narrative commences on

our journey along the Limnethang Road.

By Ron Searle, Photography by Merl and Marty Arnot, David Shackelford and Ron Searle
T he Limnethang Road in the sea level) located within coniferous in the opposite direction. The driver

Kingdom of Bhutan is a birding
informed us that we were to move to
(hemlock and spruce) forest, we spotted
hotspot capable of producing
tailed, green-tailed and Mrs. gould’s,
coming. We were forewarned by our
some world-class birds as well 3 species of sunbird, namely Fire- the side of the road as the King was
as spectacular scenery and waterfalls. each species an absolute gem. Bhutanese guide, Tserin, of the need
The songs of Wedge-billed and Rufous- to remove our headgear, and were
throated Wren-Babblers encouraged After lunch, we briefly encountered a delighted when minutes later His Royal
us to seek out other memorable birds male Satyr Tragopan, a type of pheasant, Highness, the 5th King of Bhutan, Jigme
including skulking Yellow-throated and in the road. All but one of our party saw Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck and his
golden-breasted Fulvettas, seldom seen it, albeit for only a second or two. Having modest cavalcade stopped abreast
Sapphire Flycatcher, Orange-bellied one of the most intriguing names of the of us. Alighting from the front of his
Leafbird, and Long-tailed and grey- 11 000 odd bird species of the world, black Range Rover, he came over to
chinned Minivets. We enjoyed prolonged with a loose translation of ‘horned sylvan us for a chat in English (he apparently
views of a busy party of Cutia, referred to deity’ this species is much more attractive attended university in the UK) of
in the book 100 Birds to See Before You Die than its title. Imagine a bird the size of a about 10 minutes during which we
by D Chandler and D Couzens for their large cockerel with an electric blue face, first introduced ourselves, mentioning
most unusual way of foraging. We also erectile black feather horns that it can our various countries of origin and
spotted the Little Forktail, grey-chinned raise at will, and a body plumage of the the purpose of our visit, to behold
Babbler, and noisy grey Treepie - and deepest blood red. Overlay that magical the beautiful birds and scenery of his
had a surprise encounter with a curious colour with hundreds of white ocelli so country. He then responded with an
mongoose-like Yellow-throated Marten. bright they look luminous. Then surround explanation of reasons for his presence
each of these eyes with an intense black in the area, which was to allocate
The next day, travelling up through margin and you have a sense of this additional land for subsistence farming,
the clouds and mist along what must extraordinary creature. The beauty and his love of the outdoors, wildlife and
be one of the most scenic roads in the grandeur of its habitat undoubtedly camping, as well as his fondness for
world, we passed through pristine forests feed into its legend as one of the most sampling the various home-made
punctuated by flowering magnolia sought-after birds in the world. brews of the people he visited. We
trees, scattered rhododendrons and commended him on the friendliness
numerous waterfalls. On our journey to Shortly after resuming our birding, of his people and the grandeur of the
our campsite at Sengor (3 100m above we were stopped by a vehicle coming mountains, waterfalls and forests of his

28 Waterfall Issue 9 2020