Page 38 - Waterfall City Issue 2 February 2023
P. 38

The Sanctuary on the San Sebastian
                                                                                Peninsula is the southernmost part
                                                                                of the Bazaruto archipelago and
                                                                                stretches over some 30 000 hectares
                                                                                of conserved land and ocean. It is a
                                                                                birding hotspot, as the huge estuary
                                                                                incorporates many sandbars that
                                                                                attract numerous rare migratory
                                                                                seabirds and waders. To reach the
                                                                                Sanctuary area, one drives along a
                                                                                90km sand road from the EN1 main
                                                                                road. Proof of booked accommodation
                                                                                at Jacana Camp is essential in order to
                                                        Chestnut-fronted Helmetshrike  be admitted to the reserve.

                                                                                Etienne had booked a motorboat to
                                                                                take us around the estuary and at dawn
                                                                                we set off across the calm estuary
                                                                                water to explore the first sandbar. Bird
                                                                                sightings included numerous terns like
                                                                                the Lesser crested, Damara, Swift, and
                                                                                Common Tern, Lesser and Greater Sand
                                                                                Plovers, and Common Ringed Plover.
                                                                                On a second sandbar, Etienne sighted
                                                                                two Mozambique specials i.e. a flock of
                                                                                Crab Plovers and a number of Saunders’
                                                                                Tern, the latter having been discovered
                                                                                only very recently in Mozambique. At
                                                                                low tide, the estuary becomes very
                                                                                shallow in places, revealing many more
                                                                                sandbars and we decided to moor the
                                                                                boat in front of one of the upmarket
                                                                                developments on the eastern side.
                                                                                Snorkeling in the relatively clear water
                                                                 Green Tinkerbird  around the pier at this spot revealed
                                                                                Angel fish, Lionfish and Tilapia, among
                                                                                others.

                                                                                Our second day on the boat in the
                                                                                estuary took us to yet more sandbars
                                                                                where we observed an African
                                                                                Oystercatcher, as well as many more
                                                                                terns and another look at the very
                                                                                special Saunders’ Tern. We decided to
                                                                                return to our lodge at low tide, which
                                                                                necessitated our motoring out to sea
                                                                                to go around the sandbars. Humpback
                                                                                dolphins that inhabit the estuary were
                                                                                seen and a flock of Greater Flamingos
                                                                                flew overhead.

                                                                                One could feel the pull of the ocean
                                                                                as Rashid, our pilot, drove the boat
                                                                 Eastern Nicator  through the breakers. The boat rose

        36  Waterfall City Issue 2   2023
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