Page 34 - Blue Valley Issue 5 2020 print.pdf
P. 34

NATURE



































                        KRUGER PARK RECOVERING FROM


                                             THE LOCKDOWN


                                        By James Clarke, photos by Mary Broadley





                he COVID-19 pandemic and the collapse   region. We still habitually call it Witbank. The   We entered through the Phabeni Gate near
                of tourism deeply affected our most   name Witbank (its name means ‘white ridge’)   Hazyview and immediately noticed the
            Tfamous tourist attraction – the Kruger   was long ago changed to something less   accumulation of droppings on the roads.
            National Park.                       complimentary: eMalahleni, which means   Under normal circumstances, even the
                                                 ‘place of coal’.                    conspicuous scattered droppings after a herd
            After several weeks of lockdown, we sought                               of hundreds of buffalo has crossed, would
            special permission to visit the Kruger National   But the price we are paying for cleaner skies   soon be flattened and carried away on the
            Park to see what the effects had been.  All   has been traumatic, especially for our most   tyres of tourists’ vehicles;  effectively the
            of South Africa’s national parks had barred   widespread and labour-intensive industry -   droppings would disappear within hours.
            visitors from March 25 and, for months, the   tourism.
            Kruger Park’s rest camps were empty. Some                                On the S3 - the sand road that runs along the
            remained out-of-bounds even into October.  Only game rangers and anti-poaching   Sabie River from near the Phabeni Gate to the
                                                 personnel were allowed to move around   Kruger Gate and Skukuza - we saw not one
            The limits placed on movement between   inside Kruger Park after the start of the   vehicle in the three hours we dawdled along
            provinces literally brought tourism to a halt.   lockdown.               it. On this road, we soon came across a ‘tower
            Only after three months were people in                                   of giraffe’ - a number of them were standing
            private vehicles allowed into the southern   We were there to see whether Covid-19   close together blocking the road.  They
            region of the Kruger Park, but as day visitors   regulations and the absence of visitors   showed little interest in moving. This was fine
            only. No buses or safari vehicles were allowed.  were having any effect on the park’s most   by us. We just sat and enjoyed the sight.
                                                 important inhabitants – its wild animals.
            Worldwide, the consequences of the
            COVID-19 lockdown have been fascinating.
            Its major effect was to cleanse the air of a
            considerable bulk of its poisonous burden of
            chemicals and industrial fumes.

            Even in notoriously polluted China, where
            wearing masks has been the norm for years,
            millions of people were able to witness, some
            for the first time, a clear horizon every day.
            Driving to Kruger, as we did once we had
            all the necessary papers (including police
            clearance to cross into Mpumalanga), we
            noticed how clean and fresh the air was as we
            passed through the country’s most polluted

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