Page 24 - Stoeptalk 2023 Issue 1

MOTORING
TRAVEL
becomes very shallow in places, bird was the elusive Green Tinkerbird carriageway and as there are many
revealing many more sandbars but in spite of Etienne’s best efforts, small settlements and schools along
and we decided to moor the boat we came up short. Nevertheless, the road, the maximum speed limit of
in front of one of the upmarket other great sightings included 100km/h is very frequently reduced
developments on the eastern side Chestnut-fronted Helmetshrike, to 80km/h, and then 60km/h.
of the estuary. Snorkeling in the Eastern bearded Scrub-robin, Vendors selling cashew nuts, clay
relatively clear water around the Spinetails and Grey Penduline Tit. pots, fruit and home-made pickles
pier at this spot revealed Angel fish, We then headed south for some five line the road at each settlement.
Lionfish and Tilapia, among others. hours and stayed once again at the Every half hour or so we drove
Morrungulo Beach Lodge. through a police checkpoint, but
Our second day on the boat in the mostly all three vehicles were waved
estuary took us to yet more sand The next morning, we decided to through. Radio communication
bars where we observed African try one more time for the Green between all the vehicles helped to
Oystercatcher, as well as many more Tinkerbird. After about an hour, we keep us all together.
terns and another look at the very finally spotted this most elusive of
special Saunder’s Tern. We decided Mozambique specials, as it posed at On our last day driving back to South
to return to our lodge at low tide, the top of a bush, for all of us to see. Africa, we stopped outside Xai-Xai,
which involved motoring out to Furthermore, another elusive bird, where Etienne pointed out African
sea to go around the sand bars. the Eastern Nicator, was unusually Hobby atop a radio tower. As the
Humpbacked dolphins that inhabit sighted in the open, offering a fine African Hobby is rarely seen in the
the estuary were seen and a flock of opportunity for photos. Another Southern Africa region, this was a
Greater Flamingos flew overhead. highlight was the sighting of a major sighting.
Red-throated Twinspot. We then
One could feel the pull of the ocean travelled south again for some six Etienne’s bird knowledge is
as Rashid, our pilot, guided the boat hours to our next overnight stop at phenomenal, as is his knowledge of
through the breakers. The boat rose the very splendid Zona Braza Beach the particular location of the birds
up on the waves and then crashed Resort. We dined at the restaurant, we hoped to see and his ability to
down into a trough only to rise up sampled some Portuguese wines and find them. His planning of the trip
again on the next wave and drop celebrated the great bird sightings was excellent, and this contributed
down again. Gradually, we eased our seen over the past eight days. to a very successful and memorable
way out beyond the breakers but birding experience in southern
could still feel the power of the open The EN1 main road is a single Mozambique.
ocean. Interesting sightings out at sea
included humpbacked whales and Green Tinkerbird
bottlenose dolphins. The boat ride
back to our lodge took about an hour
with the ride becoming smoother as
we entered the calmer water of the
estuary.

The following day, on our way out
of The Sanctuary, we saw another
Mozambique special i.e. a flock of
Olive Bee-eaters, as well as Red-
necked Spurfowl, Swallow–tailed
Bee-eater, African Marsh Harrier
and African Cuckoo Hawk. On
the sand road leading back to the
EN1 main road, Etienne spied a
Mascarene Martin, a mega sighting
as this bird is a winter visitor to
Mozambique, which then flies across
to Madagascar during the spring
months. Our overnight stop was at a
comfortable small lodge at Inhassoro,
Striving to ignite curiosity and a love for science
the furthest point north on our trip.

The next morning was spent in the
and engineering in our younger generation
Save Woodlands, 90 minutes’ drive
west of the EN1. Again, our target Chestnut-fronted Helmetshrike

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Boardwalk Meander Estate Issue 1 · 2023