Page 22 - Dainfern Precinct Living Issue 7_2023
P. 22

Travel
    Initiative
                  THE GATHERING



                                  PLACE OF




                                    ANIMALS






                                                                      ary and I decided to explore the little-known Royal
                                                                      Jozini Private Game Reserve in eSwatini’s south-
                                                                      eastern corner. Its main attraction, apart from the
                                                             M‘Big Five’, is its position on the banks of the Jozini
                                                             Dam, a most underrrated stretch of water bordering South
                                                             Africa and the Kingdom of eSwatini.

                                                             We were advised to enter the little kingdom – it is the smallest
                                                             nation in the Southern Hemisphere – via its Mahamba border
                                                             gate, a gate we hadn’t heard of before. The route from
                                                             Gauteng passes through the sulphuric powerhouse of South
                                                             Africa with its vast coalfields and giant power stations, each big
                                                             enough to light up the entire Eastern Cape.

                                                             It was 9.00am and the route-finder assured us that the N17,
                                                             by-passing Springs, passing through Kinross and Trichard to
                                                             Ermelo, was the fastest route. Once through Ermelo, the N2
                                                             begins – the N2, that’s the 2 000km highway that takes one
                                                             right around South Africa’s eastern and southern perimeter to
                                                             the Western Cape.

                                                             After 100km of a landscape darkened by pines and eucalyptus
                                                             plantations that, from horizon to horizon, obliterate the real
                                                             South Africa, one reaches the town of Piet Retief, now called
                                                             eMkhondo whose name means ‘assegai’ – a reminder that one
                                                             was now entering Nguni country.

                                                             We were pleasantly surprised to find eMkhondo was within
                                                             a short drive of the Mahamba border post. The tarred road,
                                                             running from the frontier through the hilly countryside along
                                                             the South African border, is well-maintained and must hold the
                                                             Guinness Book of Records for having absolutely no directional
                                                             signs. Not one. We had to ask people whether we were on the
                                                             road to Lavumisa where we knew we had to turn for the short
                                                             drive north to the Royal Jozini Game Reserve.

     Zebra festooned with red-billed oxpeckers               The little town of Lavumisa ends at another border post –
                                                             Golela, which means ‘gathering place of animals’. The name
                                                             could hardly be more appropriate for it is at the centre of a
                                                             vast international agglomeration of major game reserves. One
                                                             chain of private and provincial reserves stretches south down
                                                             to the big thornveld reserves of Mkuzi, iMfolozi, Hluhluwe,
                                                             Phinda and, on the coast, the iSimangaliso Wetland Park and
                                                             St Lucia; and then north to the Ndumo Game Reserve and
                                                             Tembe Elephant Reserve which in turn meld with reserves in
                                                             Mozambique.

                                                             We booked into the Royal Jozini Private Reserve, where we
                                                             occupied a large and quite luxurious family lodge – it’s one of
                                                             a few lodges tucked into the thick bush and within a stone’s
                                                             throw of the banks of the Jozini Dam. There were noisy
                                                             hippo, and crocodiles patrolling the banks. Birdlife was hugely
                                                             varied. There were lions around, though one rarely saw them.
                                                             We caught sight of elephant and, cruising on the lake on a
     Giraffe in front of our lodge in the Royal Jozini Private Game   catamaran belonging to nearby Kujabula Lodge, we saw a lot of
     Reserve with the Lebombo Mountains in the background    wildlife on the South African shore, including rhino.

   22  DPL issue 7 2023
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