Page 30 - Waterfall Issue 5 2021
P. 30

Waterfall Birding







        Sooty Shearwater, White-capped (Shy)
        Albatross and Common Diving Petrels.

        Bruce, our pre-arranged guide, was
        waiting for us at the ferry wharf in
        Halfmoon Bay for our transfer to our
        two-room Thorfinn cottage – with    Weka (AR)
        breathtaking views overlooking the
        bay – for the next three nights in
        Oban. An afternoon walk along the
        Fuchsia and Raroa tracks produced
        two new parrots for us, the large Kaka
        and a Red-fronted (crowned) Parakeet,
        as well as the Tui and NZ Pigeon, all
        common endemics (found only in NZ).

        The next day, weather-wise wonderful,   Brown Kiwi (POST CARD WITH NO REFERENCE)  Maclean’s Falls (RS)
        was spent on the island of ulva in the   it creeps along the forest
        Paterson Inlet, accessed by water-  floor making sniffing and
        taxi. The birding was outstanding,   snuffling sounds. Clearly,
        producing in rapid succession a     its world is more olfactory
        welcoming Weka (type Rail) on a     and tactile than visual.
        deserted beach, followed by a South   It lives in self-excavated
        Island Robin, an adult South Island   burrows up to 1.5m long
        Saddleback together with its rather   and usually lays two
        different offspring (Jackbird) and   enormous eggs, each
        finally a Yellow-fronted (crowned)   equal to one-fifth of its
        Parakeet. The highlight of the day   bodyweight. Its long,
        thus far however was the chance     slightly decurved bill is
        discovery of a small family of the   used to probe the soil for                                               .;,j
        very rare Yellowhead, a species     worms, snails, centipedes
                                                                     Golden Bay (RS)
        that had continually eluded us.     and other invertebrates. It
                                            is very unusual in that its nostrils are   Two and a half hours later, upon the
        The lush vegetation of ulva was     located at the tip of the bill rather that   stroke of midnight, our quarry, a single
        fantastic, providing a thought-     at its base, thereby enabling the bird to   rather nonchalant Kiwi, was thankfully
        provoking example of what Stewart   smell for its food. Having laid its eggs,   spotted on the trail, to the relief and
        Island, indeed what the NZ mainland   the female then puts her feet up, relying   great excitement of our exhausted
        must have been like prior to        on the male to incubate them. Their   group. What an extraordinary and
        colonisation by the Europeans. At 8.30   offspring take three months or more   privileged experience! Back in Oban
        that evening we embarked from the   to hatch. Shortly after this momentous   on our walk home in the dark, a Kiwi
        Oban harbour on a quest to find the   occasion, the well-developed chicks   was heard calling from the garden
        unique, very rare and certainly bizarre   move out of their burrow and are able to   of one of the houses nearby.
        icon, the Stewart Island Brown Kiwi, a   fend for themselves almost immediately.
        member of the bird family recognised                                    Watching Tv early the following
        as the National Bird of NZ. Classified as   Our 45-minute sea-taxi journey across   morning, we learnt of the explosion
        endangered, very shy, seldom seen and   the Paterson Inlet to the Glory Cove   and burning of a bus in the Homer
        nocturnal, this bird is like no other and   peninsula was achieved without   Tunnel, trapping 300 tourists in Milford
        accordingly is near the top of the list of   incident by 16 of us under the   Sound on South Island. Fortunately,
        100 Birds to See before You Die, a book   supervision of the highly-experienced   no one was injured in the tunnel,
        written by D Chandler and D Couzens.   Kiwi guide, Phillip. His completion of   which was evacuated on foot. This
        No other bird is quite as odd, in fact in   1 400 similar trips, of which a mere 26   certainly introduced a high degree
        many respects unbirdlike. It is flightless,   were unsuccessful (in locating a Kiwi),   of apprehension amongst our family
        has rudimentary wings covered in    re-assured us of the almost certain   group pending our planned visit
        hair-like plumage and no tail. At night   positive outcome of our expedition.   there within the next day or two.

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        28  Waterfall Issue 5   2021
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